A key that suddenly won't turn is frustrating — but forcing it is the one thing that turns a cheap fix into an expensive one (a snapped key stuck in the cylinder). Here's what's usually going on, for both door locks and car ignitions.
First rule: don't force it
If the key won't turn with light pressure, stop. Wiggle gently, but never crank hard — that's how keys break off inside the lock. If it won't budge, a locksmith can almost always fix it quickly and cheaply.
Door lock: common causes
A worn or copied key
Keys wear down over years, and copies-of-copies lose precision. If one key turns and another doesn't, the key is the problem — cut a fresh one from your best original, or have us cut a new key.
A dry or dirty cylinder
Grit and dried-out lubricant make the pins stick. A quick puff of dry PTFE or graphite lubricant often frees it. Avoid WD-40 — it's a solvent, not a lubricant, and it gums up over time.
A misaligned door
If the deadbolt binds against the strike plate (common as houses settle or in the heat), the key won't turn because the bolt can't move. Lift the door by the handle as you turn — if that helps, the door or strike needs adjustment.
A worn or broken lock
Internal wear or a failing cylinder eventually stops a lock for good. At that point a rekey or lock replacement is the fix.
Car ignition: common causes
- Steering-wheel lock — the wheel is locked against the ignition. Wiggle the wheel left-right gently while turning the key; this frees most cases instantly.
- Worn key or ignition cylinder — the most common real fault. We repair or replace the ignition cylinder and cut a matching key, usually on-site.
- Dead key-fob battery (push-to-start) — no 'turn' at all; the car won't detect the fob. Replace the battery, or hold the fob against the start button as many models allow.
If a key breaks off, don't fish for it with glue or pliers — call us. We extract broken keys and repair the lock so it works like new, 24/7 if it's a lockout emergency.
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